Kratky Strawberry Problems

• Newest leaves yellow between green veins: usually iron being locked out by high pH. Test and bring the pH back to between 5.5 and 6.5.
• Oldest leaves yellowing evenly: often a weak solution. Check the strength and replace the solution if it is several weeks old.
• A few old leaves dying off at the base is normal. Remove them.

Healthy roots are white to cream. Brown, slimy roots and a sour smell mean the roots are short of oxygen and starting to rot. The usual causes are a container refilled to the top, leaving no air gap, or solution that has become too warm.

Replace the solution, lower the level so part of the root mass hangs in air, and move the container somewhere cooler.

Algae needs light. Find where light is getting in and cover it: clear container walls, gaps around net cups or unused holes in the lid.

• Gray fuzzy mold on fruit or flowers spreads in still, humid air. Remove affected parts straight away and improve airflow.
• White powdery coating on leaves is powdery mildew. More air movement and less crowding help, and badly affected leaves should come off.

Crisp, brown edges usually mean the solution is too strong. Dilute it with plain water or replace it at a lower strength.

• Not enough light is the most common cause.
• Too hot: many varieties stop flowering in sustained heat.
• The plant is still young and establishing.
• It is a June-bearing variety outside its season.

Lopsided or knobbly berries were only partly pollinated. Hand-pollinate each open flower more thoroughly.

Aphids, spider mites and whiteflies are the usual visitors. Check the undersides of leaves regularly, rinse small infestations off with water and use insecticidal soap for anything more, following the label.

• Root Rot in Kratky Strawberries: Causes and How to Save the Plant